Luella Bartley has been one of the freshest designers to emerge in the last few years. She has a remarkably strong identity, and style which is easily recognisable - the attributes of a legendary designer.
Her style is young and fresh, feminine and fun, with a cool rebel edge.
I first saw Luella in magazines such as Vogue and Elle, and followed her work ever since, to her celebrity fan-club, and her high street lines for Urban Outfitters and Oneil.
Her audience is young and kitsch, feminine dressers with an edge, looking for something different. Her celebrity followers are the likes of Lily Allen and Alexa Chung; fashion followers, with a taste for something edgy.
Although targeting the 20's age group, being a mum herself, I think translates slightly into her designs and can be easily interpreted for the younger mother in her 30's.
Luella Spring/Summer 2009
Luella's Spring/Summer 2009 Collection, was one of her greatest, and described by herself as "An English tea party on acid." A fantastic description, which could apply to the majority of her work.
The collection was awash with bubblegum pinks and sherbet oranges. Feminine as always, but with a twist in the juxtaposition of fabrics and layering, a real step outside the box.
The collection mainly comprised of dresses, which has become an ongoing staple in Luella's recent collections. Only six pairs of trousers featured, although they finished the collection off impeccably, compared to the sixteen dresses which were seen.
Short tweed jackets accompanied sheer frilled blouses, cashmere cardigans with regal buttons with rows of pearls to complete the look.
There were no repeated garments in different colour-ways featured at all, although a strong theme throughout. Which added to this collections success.
The layering of different fabrics was what fascinated me most about this collection, and won the public over. Netting and lace were layered up over the dresses, sheer chiffon blouses, silk trousers and tweed jackets. Ditzy florals featured alongside the sweetshop-esq array of colours.
Luella maintained her sense of fun, by including her signature geeky glasses, and tall pink riding hats covered with netting.
Although designer, I think Luella's designs can be easily interpreted into the high street, as her style is very highly in demand for the young female. This collection did wash over the high street, turning everything floral and pink. She dictated the spring/summer putting a form Luella staple into the wardrobes of the public.
Luella for Urban Outfitters.
Luella's line for Urban Outfitters was very successful and in demand by high street shoppers. The garments in the range were more casual, simplified designs. Cardigans with the Luella logos, simple check dresses, polo shirts and t-shirts. I favoured the t-shirts especially, as I felt they related to the kind of t-shirts I like to produce. She moved away slightly from the more girly and frilly garments, and produced prints with more of an edge and a street art feel.
Such as this heart logo t-shirt. It still has her Luella signature, but appeals to slightly different audience, possibly younger, as the designs are less feminine and more graphic illustrated.
Her range retailed from £39 upwards, which was very reasonable for such a popular designer's line in a slightly higher end high street store such as Urban Outfitters.
It was probably the perfect store to house Luella's high street line, as the kind of person who shops at Urban Outfitters would shop at Luella. I went to see the collection in the Urban Outfitters store in Bristol. It was positioned a bit more exclusively than the rest of the clothes, but still in-keeping with the Urban Outfitter's boutique shopping experience. On rails and displayed on tables, folded on shelves and on mannequins. It was towards the back of the store, which gave the collection its own area, away from the rest of the clothes. Positioned next to Vivienne Westwood's own line for the store. This created a designer section, and being displayed in this way next to Westwood gave it an exclusive and upmarket edge.
It worked well, but I think it could have been celebrated a little more, possibly with a large but simple Luella sign, or name block to sit on the shelves.
Luella continues to be one of my favourite designers, and her attitude towards fashion and designing always inspires me. Her laid back, tongue-in-cheek sense of fun, has allowed her to obtain an impeccable style loved by so many.
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